6 Travel Ready BCs : you need a BC to match.

Changes in latitude require changes in attitude when it comes to diving equipment. The weightless feeling and freedom of movement is why you hoard vacation days, put a countdown timer on your web page and wait in long security lines just to get to that tropical paradise, where you can be in your element. You shed thick wetsuits and the lead that goes with them for thin, stretchy comfort. You trade in bulky booties and heavy-strap fins for flighty full-foots, which are extensions of your feet. Perhaps most important, you need a BC that's light, streamlined and lets you be the fish you always knew you were.

General findings

Buoyant Lift: All BCs tested provided buoyant lift equal to manufacturers' stated claims, an important point because travel BCs may offer less overall lift. You need to know you can count on what it does have.

Low Inherent Buoyancy: While extra padding is a feature on most travel BCs--and one you'll appreciate if you dive in thin exposure suits or just swimwear--all BCs in this review kept inherent buoyancy to less than 3 pounds, an acceptable amount. Less inherent buoyancy is always better, especially in tropical diving.

Low Dry Weight: All BCs tested, except one, weighed in at less than 8.5 pounds (the average weight of 20 all-around BCs sampled to provide a comparison for this review), and one was almost half the weight of a typical all-around BC.

How We Tested Them

ScubaLab contacted all major manufacturers and rounded up six of the newest buoyancy compensators specifically designed for the traveling diver. We put them to the test in three phases following our standard BC protocols.

In phase one, the ScubaLab staff checked each BC to ensure it was functioning correctly. In phase two, we took the BCs to our test pool to chart an array of objective performance measurements. We checked the actual buoyancy against manufacturers' claims to make sure you're getting the lift you need. We measured each BC for inherent buoyancy, an important factor in keeping the weight off. We also checked the flow rates of each dump valve to see if deflation could keep up with a stuck inflator button. The results of these tests are found in a chart starting on p. 106. Finally, the ScubaLab staff dived each BC and rated them on nine different areas of performance. Important areas of interest included comfort and adjustment, ascent control, attitude and stability and, of course, ease of packing. The following reviews look at what makes each BC travel-friendly and what type of diver it is best designed to serve.

Defining Our Terms

A True-Travel BC is typically lighter and more compact than your average BC. It usually sports a plush lining and comfy collar--perfect for thinner suits--and packs well for traveling. It may offer less lift capacity and have smaller weight pockets because you don't need all that lead when diving in the tropics. Some even fold up for packing or come with handy storage bags. There is also a new crop of dual-purpose models--what we call Travel-Friendly BCs--that have all the comfort of tropical BCs, but maintain enough lift capacity and adjustment to go from the Great Lakes to the Great Barrier Reef. Then there are what we classify as Special-Purpose BCs, which work in warm water because manufacturers have trimmed down the bulk, but still offer all the features you might need for specific missions, like tech diving.

True-Travel BCs

Cressi Flex Cressi Flex Dry weight: 4 pounds, 5 ounces Buoyant lift: 22.5 pounds Inherent buoyancy: 1.1 pounds The Flex is a true-travel BC, offering unbeatable ease of packing and the lowest dry weight of all the models in this review, but it doesn't scrimp on features. At just over 4 pounds (size medium), it weighs about 40 percent less than most other jacket-style BCs, it's streamlined and folds up and packs away in its own transport bag. There are plenty of adjustments including quick-release shoulder straps and waist buckles, a Velcro cummerbund, eight metal D-rings and two clip-on hose holders. The shoulders are wide and though they're not heavily padded, they spread the load well. In the water, the BC is comfortable, secure and very stable for a soft-pack BC, thanks to a rubber gripping sleeve on the primary cam band and a wide stabilizing strap. The Flex also sports two large cargo pockets with zippered openings that reach all the way forward for easy access. Controls include a slim inflator with pull dump and two alternate valves, right shoulder and rear, with toggles routed to the front. In our test dives, both normal buoyancy adjustments and sudden ascents were easy to control. While it's not a weight-integrated BC, there are mesh sleeves inside the cargo pockets and two trim pockets located tank-side for balancing your ballast load--a nice touch. How to pack it Fold it and stow it in its custom travel bag. Bottom Line An excellent choice for a warm-water-only travel BC. Price: $444. cressi.it

Oceanic Islander 2 Oceanic Islander 2 Dry weight: 7 pounds Buoyant lift: 26 pounds Inherent buoyancy: 0.5 pounds The Islander 2 is also a True-Travel BC, but in this case it's a back-buoyancy-style and it comes with a basic integrated-weight system designed for light ballast loads. It's a lightweight BC with comfortable padding and multiple attachment points for accessories, but in a low-profile form that packs nicely in your gear bag. Assembly is easy with this BC, thanks to a molded handle and tank-positioning strap. The harness system features an adjustable depth-compensating cummerbund; contoured, padded shoulders; a rolled neoprene collar; and thick back padding. And for all these comfort features, the BC still offers an exceptionally low inherent buoyancy of just a half-pound. We also liked the large zippered cargo pockets. The integrated-weight pouches are set back slightly and come with small ballast bags that load via a zippered opening. They'll hold up to 7 pounds on each side. To ditch, just squeeze the quick-release buckles--gravity does the rest. It also comes with trim weight pouches on the tank band that can be removed if not needed. The ergonomically designed power inflator fits well in the hand and delivers good ascent/descent control. How to pack it With this hard-pack the best way is to unbuckle the shoulders and lay it flat in the bottom of your bag. Put your other gear on top and then use the cummerbund for fold-over protection. Bottom Line The Islander 2 is a great choice for a True-Travel BC if you prefer back buoyancy and an integrated-weight system. It's the second-lightest in weight and second-lowest in inherent buoyancy of those tested. It gives a comfortable ride with minimal bulk. Price: $499.95. OceanicWorldwide.com

Travel-Friendly BCs

Mares Icon Mares Icon Dry weight: 7 pounds, 15 ounces Buoyant lift: 45 pounds Inherent buoyancy: 2.9 pounds The Icon is a great example of the category we call Travel-Friendly BCs. It has all the comfort, lift, ballast capacity and adjustability you need for temperate-water diving, but thanks to the Mares Quick-Pac design, it also folds up into a compact, travel-ready form. The harness system offers a secure, adjustable fit without bulk. Pivoting shoulder straps are finished with plastic D-rings for an easy-tug adjustment, and the quick-release buckles have tabs for effortless loosening. In place of a cummerbund, there is a two-inch waist strap, and a multi-position chest strap adds a final touch of customized fit. Underwater, this configuration provided exceptional trim and balance without excess bulk. We also found it to be a very comfortable BC, thanks to the Mares BPS padding system, a plush lining and a rolled neoprene collar. The Icon also comes with the proven MRS-Plus integrated-weight system, which loads easily and ditches with a single movement. What makes this BC travel-friendly is the semi-hard pack design integrating a small plastic support at the main tank band and leaving the rest flexible for easy folding. A compact, ergonomically shaped power inflator with pull dump provides dependable buoyancy control, and there are two remote exhaust valves for control in any swimming position. How to pack it Unclip the quick-release shoulder straps and trim weight pouches, fold in the weight pouches and roll them toward the center for a football-shaped package. Bottom Line The Icon is our favorite Travel-Friendly model. Price: $550. mares.com

Mares Pegasus Mares Pegasus Dry weight: 7 pounds, 7 ounces Buoyant lift: 45 pounds Inherent buoyancy: 2 pounds The Pegasus is a simple, low-profile rig that could be the most stealthy and stable BC in this review. It's got the travel angle covered by weighing in under 8 pounds, and with its streamlined back-buoyancy air cell and efficient harness system, it's very comfortable--almost like you're not wearing a BC at all. A nice shoulder-strap design and dual-position sternum strap offers snug stability. The 2-inch waist strap with quick-release buckle and dual D-rings are simple and secure. Unique to the BCs in this review is a parachute-style crotch strap that fits around the thighs for added stability. It's removable if you like, but we found it worth having, especially in a head-down swimming position. It's also a full-featured BC with the MRS-Plus weight system and a bungee-retracted air cell with up to 45 pounds of lift. Ascents and descents were easy to control. The power inflator has an ergonomic shape that fits well in the hand and an efficient pull-dump exhaust. The alternate shoulder dump on the right side has a large toggle near the chest strap that's easy to find. How to pack it It's a hard-pack design, so it travels best laid flat in your gear bag and does so without taking up very much room. Bottom Line The Pegasus is a minimalist-style BC that's streamlined, comfortable and will work well at home and on vacation. It has the weight capacity and buoyant lift to handle virtually any temperate-water situation. Price: $450. mares.com

Zeagle Escape Zeagle Escape Dry weight: 7 pounds, 13 ounces Buoyant lift: 35 Inherent buoyancy: 2.25 pounds The Escape is a minimalist Travel-Friendly BC especially well-suited for tropical dive travel by virtue of a low-profile, soft-pack design that packs easily and offers moderate lift and ballast-carrying capacity. Above and below the water, the Escape is a very comfortable BC, with contoured shoulders and a multi-position chest strap. A streamlined design with a bungee system keeps the air-cell close, and double bands keep tank wobble to a minimum. The cargo pockets have good zipper closures and offer decent volume, but are set back toward the bladder, making them a bit hard to reach. The weight system uses mechanical buckles backed up by Velcro, and they sit right up front where you can easily reach them. They ditch and load very easily, even when wearing the BC. It's also the only BC we tested with ditchable trim pockets mounted on the lower tank band. The power inflator is a traditional style with a new twist. The exhaust hose can be disconnected via a threaded fitting that, coincidentally, is the same size as a garden hose, allowing you to flush the bladder after a dive. It also accommodates Zeagle's new Octo-Z alternate air source/inflator unit. How to pack it Because it's a soft-pack BC, we tried it both ways, folded and flat. Flat won with less bulkiness. Bottom Line The Escape is the perfect Travel-Friendly BC for those who like to dive on vacation more than at home. Price: $495. zeagle.com

Special-Purpose BC

Hollis ATS Hollis ATS (Advanced Travel System) Dry weight: 9 pounds, 9 ounces Buoyant lift: 34 pounds Inherent buoyancy: None The Hollis ATS represents a new concept in BCs that we classify as Special-Purpose. It provides the traveling tech diver everything he or she wants in a BC, just trimmed down for warmer water. At 9 pounds, 9 ounces dry weight, the ATS is heavier than most standard BCs, and with a hard-pack design it's no more bag-friendly than most--but compared to a typical technical-diving rig, it's far more streamlined. The harness is contoured, the hard pack is compact and there's minimal bulk in front of the BC. The two-inch crotch strap is a bit wide (one-inch would have been fine), but it does its job, making the BC more stable. The ATS features an optional cummerbund and a traditional waist strap with a nice stainless steel buckle. The back-buoyancy design is very stable and provides a good swimming attitude. The integrated-weight system, which combines Velcro and a mechanical buckle, is very secure, and once you figure out how to insert the pockets without catching the Velcro, it's easy to load. A pull of the handle releases the buckle, pulls free the Velcro and the pouches come out in one smooth motion. For ascent/descent control, there's a traditional power inflator, but no pull dump at the top of the exhaust hose. There is, however, an alternate pull dump on the top right side of the air cell activated by a well-routed front toggle. It's a very well-made BC, with zero inherent buoyancy and lots of stainless steel D-rings located right where you want them. How to pack it Unbuckle the shoulders and lay the ATS flat. Load in the rest of your gear, and use the cummerbund as an internal compression strap for a tight fit. Bottom Line Overall, a solid BC with all the right stuff for a tech diver on vacation. Price: $499.50. hollisgear.com

InDepth

Scubalab 6 Travel Ready BCs Chart--(132K PDF)

How and Why We Test BCs
The goal of every ScubaLab gear review is to help you be an informed dive gear consumer. Our reviews are impartial and rooted in both objective measurements of raw performance and the feedback of human test divers. On the following charts, you'll find the results of both types of testing.

Objective Performance Measurements
Inherent buoyancy. This test measures how much lift the BC has when all air is dumped from the air cell. Less inherent buoyancy is always better. We consider three pounds of inherent buoyancy acceptable; between 1 and 2 pounds average; less than 1 pound exceptionally good.

Deflate Valve Function. The full details of this test are outlined in the chart below.

Ergonomic Tests
Our ergonomic tests are designed to tell you how dive gear functions in everyday use. Test divers use a 1 to 5 rating system to score each area of performance.

Ascent Control. An evaluation of how easily the BC can be used to control a normal ascent.

Attitude and Stability. Evaluated while swimming underwater to determine if the BC will keep the diver in the proper swimming position without wobbling.

Weight Ditching. An evaluation of how easy or difficult it is to ditch weights in a simulated emergency situation.

Valve Operation. Evaluated by the ease with which a diver can find and use the oral and power inflators, the oral deflate held overhead, the pull dump and the remote exhaust valve(s).

Comfort and Adjustment. Checked both in and out of the water with the BC strapped to a tank.

Assembly. Performed on deck without instructions.

Weight Loading. An evaluation of how easy or difficult it is for a diver to load weights and secure the system while wearing the BC.

Pockets. Tested in and out of the water, this is an evaluation of how easy or difficult it is to access and use the BC's pockets.

Flow Rates
We test flow rates to determine whether a BC's deflation valves will stay ahead of the inflation valve to avoid an out-of-control ascent in the event the inflation valve sticks open. In a heads-up ascent position, starting out with the BC totally empty and loaded with ballast equaling 20 percent of its manufacturer-stated buoyant lift, the inflation valve was simultaneously activated for 20 seconds with each of the deflation valves. Each time, the BC was checked to see if it was able to remain negatively buoyant. Industry standards require that one method of deflation must keep up with inflation.

	Inflator/deflator held overhead	exhaust hose pull dump	alternate shoulder pull dump
Cressi Flex	Yes	Yes	Yes
Hollis ATS	Yes	N/A	Yes
Mares Icon	No	No	Yes
Mares Pegasus	No	No	Yes
Oceanic Islander 2	No	Yes	N/A
Zeagle Escape	Yes	Yes	N/A

Technorati Tags: 6 Travel Ready BCs

On the Cutting Edge : Eleven new models show just how far the traditional dive knife has come.

No piece of gear defines scuba's early black-and-white era better than the big, bayonet-length dive knife. Back in the day, no self-respecting diver would dare enter the water without a trusty (and often rusty) weapon of mass destruction strapped to his leg. But just as the analog dive watch gave way to the dive computer, and the j-valve was replaced by the submersible pressure gauge, the old-school dive sword has been upstaged by a better alternative.

The new breed of dive knives tends to be smaller, which makes them easier to mount and stow; they have innovative blade designs which make them better suited to their true task of cutting through rope and fishing line (not throats and air hoses); and they're made of rust- and corrosion-resistant metals so they last longer and hold an edge better.

Making the Cut

The 11 models profiled here range from small emergency folding knives you can stash in a BC pocket, to traditional fixed-blade knives designed to be worn on a webbed belt or, if you're a traditionalist, strapped to your leg.

We put them all to the test to see how well they cut a variety of materials. Then we subjected them to our "rust test," an extended period of wet neglect in a saltwater environment to see how well they resist rust and corrosion.

For the cutting tests, we tried each blade in out-of-the-box condition on five different materials that today's divers are likely to face: 30-pound monofilament fishing line; 1/8-inch general-purpose Dacron line; 3/8-inch polypropylene line; 1/2-inch three-strand nylon anchor line; and 5/16-inch Vectran--a single-braid, low-stretch marine line so tough that it's used as a substitute for wire rigging. We discovered that the cutting efficiency of each knife depends largely on what's being cut. When attacking monofilament and Dacron line, virtually all knives get the job done. It's when you start sawing into the larger three-strand ropes and braids that you start seeing how different blade designs--not to mention cutting techniques--come into play (see: "The Cutting Test").

We tested for rust resistance by soaking the knives in salt water twice a day for 15 consecutive days. After each dunking, the knives were set out to dry while still in their sheaths. To our surprise, none of these knives showed much rust or corrosion at all. Most rust that appeared could be wiped off with a freshwater rinse and a brisk rubdown with a terry cloth towel. In spots where rust persisted, some light scraping with a razor blade took care of the problem. This clearly illustrates that any of these knives can be kept totally rust- and corrosion-free with just a little TLC (see: "Clean Cuts: Dive Knife Maintenance Tips").

Fixed Knives

OMS: Ti Knife

Compact, lightweight and housed in an effective sheath, this knife brings a three-inch, nonmagnetic titanium blade to bear when it's time to go to work. The blade features a blunt tip for prying and a combination of plain and serrated cutting edges. The sharp serrated points, interspersed with a plain edge, were able to hack through most of our cutting jobs, but they tended to snag on ropes and woven fibers more than the other knives in this test group. It aced the rust test, of course, as titanium simply doesn't fall victim to corrosion. Another plus: The knife comes in a handy delrin sheath. It can be threaded onto two-inch webbing or clipped to virtually any BC strap, and it holds the blade securely in place while also allowing easy one-handed access. The high-vis orange handle is textured for a firm grip and provides a good blade guard to keep fingers from slipping.

SCUBAPRO: Mako

The sleek new Mako is made from a single piece of either 304 stainless steel or titanium, and both versions give you a number of cutting surfaces to work with. There's a primary serrated/plain edge, a sharpened tanto tip that lets you both pry and slice, and a line-cutting notch for monofilament. We tested the 304 stainless version, which resisted rust buildup like a champ, but didn't hold an edge as well as other knives in this test (try the titanium version if you need a sharper blade). On the plus side, a composite rubber handle and blade guard provide a solid grip without the worry of fingers slipping into harm's way. The blade stows securely in a plastic sheath with a spring-loaded release button that lets you pull and replace the knife with one hand. The sheath also comes with two narrow straps for mounting on your calf or forearm. The straps use unique buckles to make it easy to mount or remove the sheath, and they are easily adjustable. Bonus: On the end of the handle there's a bottle opener, making this a tool you'll want to keep handy topside, too. Safety tip: Scubapro stresses the bottle opener should be used only when the knife is secured in the sheath. Good advice.

SPYDERCO: Caspian2 Salt

This innovative cutter is made from a seven-inch piece of H1 stainless steel, which uses nitrogen in place of carbon in its steel matrix. According to Spyderco, this allows for superior rust resistance plus enables the three-inch blade to hold a super-sharp edge. The unit we tested was a prototype, and its cutting edge was half serrated, half plain. There was also a line cutter and a blunt tip for prying. But what really helped the knife's efficiency was the handle. First off, it has a cutout to reduce overall weight. What's left is overlaid with nonslip fiberglass-reinforced nylon. The key to the design is the index finger hole and textured metal spine where blade and handle meet. Put your index finger through the hole, and your thumb on the textured spine, and you've got yourself a rock-solid grip that radically increases leverage for sawing through all kinds of nasty stuff. The sheath wasn't available at press time, but Spyderco says it will feature a button release that lines up with the index finger hole for increased security.

TUSA: FK-850 X-Pert

The full-sized FK-850 is one of the best all-around knives in this group as every available centimeter of its 420 stainless-steel blade is designed for cutting. The upper blade edge is divided between line-cutting notch, serrated edge and a short length of plain edge. The lower blade is a seriously sharp plain edge and the stiletto point is downright lethal. The plain edge proved to be the most effective choice, able to slice through half-inch anchor line and even hi-tech Vectran like butter. But its wavy-style serrated edge was almost as efficient. The blade is balanced by a contoured handle with a blade guard that's both comfortable and safe. The plastic sheath offers a push-button release and positive-click security system so you know it's not going anywhere. The knife is really too big to be strapped anywhere except on the leg, but it uses a unique buckle system that lets you unhook the sheath without unthreading the straps. Even better, squeeze buckles allow for hassle-free adjustment.

UNDERWATER KINETICS: Remora Ti

This is a small emergency knife that comes with sheath attachments that enable you to mount it either on your BC, on a hose, or threaded onto a one- or two-inch web strap. The knife/sheath combo is only seven inches long and is very low-profile, so it stays tucked out of the way until needed. Just don't underestimate its cutting power. Its wavy-style serrated edge was able to saw through the thicker materials more easily than many of its larger competitors. The knife offers one-handed accessibility and a noncorrosive titanium blade with a basic serrated edge for sawing and a blunt tip for prying. There is no blade guard to speak of, but the handle offers a pair of molded shoulders to rest your thumb and index finger on, and a flat upper blade edge that you can bear down on with your thumb when cutting into something stubborn. The sheath doesn't have a push-button release, but the knife stows with a positive click providing a pretty secure fit.

UNDERWATER KINETICS: Blue Tang Ti Drop Point

While the Remora is a compact BC knife, the Blue Tang is a traditional full-sized cutter that conjures up visions of Jim Bowie. The ultra-comfortable, contoured handle provides an excellent grip as well as a very efficient blade guard to prevent finger slips. The blade itself is made of lightweight, noncorrosive titanium and measures a full five inches-- enough room for a classic drop point, generous plain and serrated edges, and a line-cutting notch. The Blue Tang is a serious cutting tool, with one of the most efficient serrated sawing edges in this review, and an even meaner plain edge that seemed to cut better as the material got tougher. The knife locks securely into a composite sheath fitted with two narrow straps for lashing to your leg. The sheath also provides a one-hand release when you press both tabs flanking the handle. And if you're meticulous about maintaining your gear, you'll appreciate that the Blue Tang comes apart without tools for cleaning. It's also available with a blunt tip.

XS SCUBA: Fogcutter X Recon Knife

The biggest knife in this group, the Recon measures over 12 inches overall, and sports a six-inch, all-black, chromate-finished 420 stainless-steel blade. The Recon actually provides two cutting functions. First and foremost, it's a traditional knife with long serrated and plain edges, a line-cutting notch and a pointed tip. But it also works as cutting shears. How? Half the blade and the handle split apart like a multi-tool to produce a relatively efficient shears-type cutter. In knife mode, the blade is also pretty efficient, although it tended to jam when sawing through thicker ropes with the serrated edge (always at the point where the cutting shears portion of the serrated edge butts against the blade portion). Also, in shear mode watch out for palm-pinching if you're not wearing gloves. As a knife, the Recon features a comfortable handle and a large blade guard that locks into the sheath for optimum security.

Folding Knives

SPYDERCO: Salt 1 (yellow) & Tasman Salt (black)

The Salt 1 (shown in yellow) and the Tasman Salt (shown in black) use the same four-inch fiberglass-reinforced nylon handle with reversible titanium belt clip if you don't want to stow it in your BC pocket. Both feature the distinctive Spyderco round hole in the blade that makes it easy to open and close the blade with one hand, and both use a lever dent that locks the blade in an open position to prevent it from folding onto your fingers when you least expect it. Finally, both knives feature H1 stainless-steel blades. Where the two knives differ is in the shape of their serrated edges. The Salt I has more of a convex cutting edge, while the Tasman Salt uses a curved "Hawkbill" blade. The Salt 1 blade is effective at both loop cuts and sawing against relatively flat surfaces. The Tasman blade has too much curve for standard sawing on flat surfaces, but excels in loop cuts.

SPYDERCO: Pacific Salt (black) & Atlantic Salt (yellow)

Larger versions of the Salt 1 and Tasman Salt, these two folding knives come with all the standard Spyderco features, including H1 stainless-steel blades, Spyderco round holes for one-handed opening and closing, and lever dents to lock the blades open when in use. The Pacific Salt, with a slightly longer handle, uses a very efficient plain-edge blade (also available in a serrated version) with pointed tip that proved to be one of the best cutters in this review, regardless of knife style. The Atlantic Salt uses a serrated blade (also available in a plain edge version) with a more rounded tip, which is also very efficient. Both knives have textured fiberglass-reinforced nylon handles with belt clips and holes for lanyards. All internal steel parts are treated to make them impervious to rust, pitting and salt.

What To Look For In A Dive Knife

Efficient Cutting Edges. Most models come with either a plain edge, a serrated edge, or a combination of both. A plain edge is most effective at slicing-type cuts. If the cutting edge has a curve to it, referred to as "belly," it slices even better.

A serrated edge (top) is great for sawing-type cuts. Some serrated edges are pointy with sharp angles, others have a more wavy shape to their serrations. Wavy serrations (bottom) tend to cut material like heavy three-strand line more efficiently because the more rounded teeth run smoothly over the fibers, while the more pointy teeth have a tendency to get snagged.

Some blades offer both a serrated and a plain edge on the same cutting plane. Other knives separate their cutting edges; for example, the top edge is serrated, the lower edge is plain. This is a more functional design, because each edge type runs the entire length of the blade, thereby maximizing your cutting action.

Many blades also include a line-cutting notch (A). These are handy for snapping fishing line. However, a good plain or serrated edge will take care of monofilament just as efficiently.

A Functional Tip. Dive knives tend to come with one of three blade tips: a blunt tip, a pointed tip or a tanto tip.

The blunt tip (D) prevents you from accidentally stabbing yourself when returning the blade to its sheath. It also lets you use the knife as a pry tool without worrying about breaking the tip.

Pointed tips (B)--from stiletto to drop point styles--are not so good for prying, but they can make the difference between success and failure when you have to get a cut started by stabbing into a nasty rope knot. But be careful with a pointed tip; you can jab yourself or your BC bladder if you don't pay attention when sheathing it.

A tanto tip (C) is a bit of a hybrid. It's blunt, but with about a 70-degree angle to it and a sharp edge, similar to the edge on a chisel. You can do a little prying with less chance of snapping the tip, yet you also have that additional sharp edge if you need to do some cutting in tight spaces.

Blade Material. Most dive knives, and all knives in this review, feature blades made of either 304, 420 or H1 stainless steel, or titanium.

Softer 304 stainless steel offers excellent corrosion resistance, but it doesn't hold an edge as well as, say, 420 stainless, which does hold a sharp edge but rusts faster. H1 stainless is a special composite exclusive to Spyderco knives. It uses nitrogen in place of carbon in its steel matrix, resulting in a blade that's high in corrosion resistance while still being able to hold a very sharp edge.

And then there's titanium, the Superman of blade materials. It's harder than stainless yet lighter. You won't find better corrosion resistance, and the blade will hold a sharp edge for a long, long time.

A Good Handle. Regardless of the size of the knife, you want as much handle as possible to enable you to maintain a secure grip and full control of the blade. Good handles have textured surfaces or use special nonskid composites to provide a no-slip grip.

An Effective Blade Guard. (top) The design of the space between handle and blade is critical when it comes to a knife's efficiency as well as your safety. A metal or composite ridge or guard will keep your fingers from slipping forward onto the blade when you're bearing down on a cut. The best guards have a bit of a hook on the bottom side to catch your forefinger, and a thumb rest on the top.

A Place for a Lanyard. (bottom) Underwater, wearing gloves, in a stressful situation it's just too easy to drop the knife. Handles that feature a hole at their base for stringing a lanyard will radically increase the chances of the knife staying with you.

A Good Sheath with multiple mounting options. Where do you want to mount your knife? Some of the larger models come with double straps for lashing to your leg, just like in the old days. But sometimes you want to thread it onto your weightbelt or some other length of webbing. Some sheaths come set up to do this. Others can be modified for web threading. Still others come with accessories that let you mount the sheath on a console hose or a BC pocket flap.

A sheath should enable you to release and draw your knife with one hand. Also, when you return the knife to the sheath, it should engage positively with a "click," ensuring the knife stays where it belongs.

Folding Knives

Folding knives are handy because they don't require a sheath, and they stow easily, either in a BC pocket or on a belt via a flexible clip. Like fixed-blade knives, folding knives should have textured grips so that they're easy to hold onto, and places for attaching a lanyard. Finally, a good folding knife lets you deploy the blade using one hand. It will also lock in the open position so the blade can't collapse on your fingers.

The Cutting Test

For the cutting tests, we tried each blade on a collection of the stuff today's divers might face under water. With the blades at their out-of-the-box sharpest condition, we did damage to the following materials using two cutting methods:

Loop Cut. After forming a loop with the line, we held the base of the loop in one hand, while with the other we took the knife blade and attacked the loop using an upward cutting motion.

Saw Cut. A length of line was stretched over a block of wood. Laying each knife edge on the line, we used a sawing motion to sever the line.

Here are the results.
The Material: 30-pound monofilament fishing line. [1]

Best cutting technique: Use a line-cutting notch or plain edge. Hook the line in the notch or along the plain edge, apply some tension, then give it a quick snap.

Best tool for the job: All knives in this group worked equally well.



The Material: 1/8-inch general-purpose Dacron line. [2]

Best cutting technique: A single swipe of a sharp plain edge through a loop works best.

Best tool for the job: All knives in this review worked equally well.



The Material: 3/8-inch three-strand polypropylene [3] (commonly used on lobster pots and other fishing traps).

Best cutting technique: A wavy serrated blade drawn repeatedly through a loop.

Best tool for the job: Using a loop cut, the wavy serrated edges of the Spyderco Caspian2 Salt and UK Remora Ti did the job the fastest. However, the sharp plain edges of the UK Blue Tang Ti and Tusa FK-850 were the champs at flat sawing.



The material: 1/2-inch three-strand nylon anchor line. [4]

Best cutting technique: Wavy-style serrated blades cut through a loop with ease.

Best tool for the job: Spyderco Caspian2 Salt and UK Remora Ti led the pack. The serrated edges on the UK Blue Tang Ti and Tusa FK-850 also performed well, but their plain edges were even better using both the loop cut and flat saw cutting methods.



The material: 5/16-inch Vectran single-braid marine line. [5]

Best way to cut it: This is some really tough stuff. Most blades had trouble getting through it. Overall, repeatedly swiping a blade through a loop was the most effective method.

Best tool for the job: The Tusa FK-850 was the clear champ at cutting this material--both its long plain edge and wavy serrated edge worked well. The Spyderco Pacific Salt's plain edge was a close second.

Clean Cuts: Dive Knife Maintenance Tips

While the knives in this review remained mostly rust-free even after 15 days of wet neglect, our rust test is really no way to treat your dive knife. A little post-dive maintenance will help keep your blade shiny, sharp and ready to cut.

Rinse it. Remove the blade from its sheath and soak both parts in fresh water. If the knife disassembles that's even better, as it will allow you to clean all components separately, eliminating all those joints where corrosion loves to hide.

Wipe it down. After a good soak, give both sheath and knife a good shake, then wipe down the knife with a dry towel. This is when you want to inspect the knife closely for any signs of corrosion. A good rub with the towel will clean any rust spots before they get worse. Now's also the time to give your sheath's straps a quick look. Better to replace a dry-rotted strap now than to have it snap on you at 80 feet.

Spray it. Once dry, you may want to spray a light coat of silicone on the blade. You can get this stuff at virtually any dive store--it's also used on zippers. Then slide it back into the dry sheath. Do not use WD40 or any other petroleum products.Technorati Tags: On the Cutting Edge

Luxury Dive Watches : Six premium timepieces that love the water as much as you do.

There was a time when wearing a dive watch meant one thing-you were a diver about to get down to business. Your watch was a no-nonsense tool necessary for safe diving. That it also looked pretty darn cool on your wrist above water, well, that was just a bonus.

Fast-forward to today and there has been a role reversal of sorts. Analog dive watches have largely been replaced by digital dive computers for the prosaic task of tracking bottom time, but thanks to timeless styling, dive watches are more popular than ever. Even those poor unfortunate souls who don't know a deco stop from a decaf latte look upon them with admiration and envy, because you don't need a C-card to appreciate the genius of a well-crafted timepiece that's ready for whatever life throws at you.

Ball Engineer Master II Diver

Ball Engineer Master II Diver There are two features sure to get people on the dive boat talking about your Engineer Master II Diver. One is the internal rotating bezel. Using the top screw-down crown, you can dial the bezel into position against the minute hand, then lock it into place. The second is the military-spec GTLS illumination system, which uses 53 individual tubes of tritium gas as an alternative to luminous hand and face markers. The tubes provide a constant light source that is 100 times brighter, doesn't need charging and lasts for 25 years. Retail price: $1,599.

Citizen 20th Anniversary Aqualand Eco Drive

Citizen 20th Anniversary Aqualand Eco Drive Citizen 20th Anniversary Aqualand Eco Drive - D-ring Available in both round and distinctive D-ring versions, this light-powered analog/digital hybrid comes loaded with features. It tracks and records your depth, maximum depth (to 300 feet) and dive time, as well as water temperature. The Aqualand even has a user-programmable depth alarm, and it logs information for up to 20 dives. Bonus for world-traveling divers: Choose the city nearest your destination from the digital menu and the watch hands automatically set themselves to the correct local time. Retail price: $600.

Victorinox Swiss Army Dive Master 500

Victorinox Swiss Army Dive Master 500 Clean lines, classic features and an uncluttered display mark the new Dive Master 500. With the watch movement packed inside a durable casing made of corrosion-resistant 316L stainless steel and a scratch-resistant, anti-glare sapphire crystal, it's water-resistant to 1,650 feet. The stainless-steel bracelet features a double-locking clasp for a secure ride on your wrist whether you're exploring a reef at 60 feet or giving a 60-page presentation in the boardroom. Retail price: $525.

Oris Der Meistertaucher Regulateur

Oris Der Meistertaucher Regulateur Oris touts this as their professional diver's watch and they aren't kidding. Rated to more than 3,000 feet, it includes a helium release valve to equalize the pressure that can build up in the case when you're inside a saturation dive chamber. For recreational diving, the oversized minute hand works with the one-way rotating bezel for easy, at-a-glance reads on your bottom time. It's a sizeable watch, but light on the wrist thanks to a corrosion-free titanium case and bracelet. Retail price: $1,995.

Tag Heuer Aquagraph Auto Chrono

Tag Heuer Aquagraph Auto Chrono The Aquagraph starts with classic dive watch styling and adds a few innovative twists. The one-way rotating bezel, for example, must be pushed down to rotate. Once released, it stays locked in place. Smart. There's also a push-button chronograph function useful for timing safety or deco stops. One click centers two big yellow hands; another sets them in motion to count out the seconds and minutes independent of the traditional minute and hour hands. Retail price: $2,995.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date

With the introduction of the original Submariner in 1953, Rolex defined everything that makes the traditional dive watch functional and beautiful-one-way rotating bezel, water-tight crown, and luminous hands and hour marks. The Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date, shown here with the 18-karat gold bezel and a fliplock-clasp bracelet, retains the clean, classic lines of the original and the status as "the ultimate" in luxury dive watches. The 40mm case is machined from a solid block of 904L stainless steel, and is waterproof to 1,000 feet. The best part of owning this watch? For the rest of your life you can enjoy telling your dive buddies, "Yes. It's a Rolex." Retail price (as shown): $7,825.Technorati Tags: premium dive timepieces that love the water

Lost (And Found) At Sea : The sobering truth about surface signaling devices.

Photo by Tanya Burnett

As you finish your safety stop and start making your way topside, you
notice the bottom below is slowly drifting by. At the surface, you
don't see the boat because of the chop, but as you inflate your BC it
comes into view. You're surprised at how far away it appears. You roll
onto your back and start kicking. After a few minutes you turn over to
check your progress and a shiver of panic goes through you. You realize
you are actually farther away than when you started. You quickly think
of your options and the safety gear you are carrying-a signaling tube
and an air horn. What should you do first? Which one will get the
boat's attention? Will any of them work?

We decided to find out.


We contacted all major manufacturers and asked them to send us their
best "come get me" gear. We focused our review on two categories:
visual signaling devices and audible signaling devices. We then set out
to discover just how well they really work in the cold and unforgiving
vastness of the Pacific Ocean. Using a custom Radon 26-foot dive boat,
we spent two days off the coast of Santa Barbara, Calif., measuring the
visible range of signaling tubes and the audible range of horns and
whistles. The results were sobering, and at the end of the test,
everyone on our team left with a better understanding of the limits of
signaling devices-and a vow to brush up on underwater navigation skills
to avoid surfacing too far from the boat.

How We Tested Them

Signal Tubes. Each
signal tube was first tested to find the exact depth to which it must
be submerged in order for it to remain in a vertical position. Each was
then weighted to simulate a diver pulling down on the tube to create
this stable position. We clipped each tube to an anchored buoy and
entered the buoy's position into the onboard GPS chart plotter. We then
motored east from the tube, stopping at distances of one-quarter,
one-half, three-quarters and one full nautical mile. At each distance,
the crew would scan the horizon to see if the tube was still visible to
the naked eye. With this data in hand, we then geared up and hit the
water to examine how a diver would pack, deploy, inflate and stabilize
each device.

Signal tubes were tested over the course of two days.

Day 1
Conditions: Sunny, clear skies, sun at our back. Surface Visibility: 5 to 8 miles. Wind: Calm, no whitecaps. Swell: 1 foot. Searcher's eyes: 6 feet above the waterline.


On the first day, we attached each signal tube to a line at five-foot
intervals for side-by-side comparison. We placed the tubes in order
from tallest to shortest, and predictably discovered that the smaller
tubes vanished first.

Day 2
Conditions: Overcast, sun at our back. Surface Visibility: 3 to 5 miles. Wind: Calm, no white-caps. Swell: 1 to 2 feet. Searcher's eyes: 6 feet above waterline.


On the second day, we deployed each signal tube by itself, simulating a
single diver adrift. Right away, we noticed that visible distances were
shorter than the previous day when there was direct sunlight and
multiple targets. The more conservative measurements taken on this day
are included in each review. Note, however, that with the sun at our
back, no whitecaps and small seas, conditions were as close to optimal
as you can get. In a real "come and get me" situation, the range of
visibility could be better or worse depending on conditions.

Audible alerts.
One tester was left anchored in a zodiac with a handheld VHF radio and
our inventory of whistles and horns. At various measured distances, we
stopped, signaled the tester to begin sounding each device, and
listened with the engine at idle to provide normal boat noise. The boat
was positioned downwind to offer optimal conditions. The maximum
audible range of each device is included in the reviews for comparison,
but it should be noted that in other conditions the range may vary.

Conclusions

While signaling tubes and
audible signaling devices do dramatically improve your odds of being
spotted, we were surprised at the limited range they offered, even in
our relatively good conditions. In general:

Size matters.
All signal tubes tested were visible at one-quarter nautical mile, and
about half were still visible at the half-mile mark. As expected, the
longer the tube, the greater the visible range. The largest tubes in
this test were visible at the three-quarter mark, and only one was
still visible at almost one nautical mile.

Color matters.
We also found that fluorescent yellow was very easy to spot in overcast
conditions while orange stood out in bright sunlight. Lettering on
tubes was not particularly helpful, and the black webbing tape that
trimmed the edges of most tubes only lessens the potential visibility
at greater distances.

Audible ranges are limited.
Whistles were effective only to about one- quarter mile, with a few
discernible at a half mile, but all were still better than yelling,
which could be heard only at a tenth of a mile. Of the two air horns
tested one was stellar, blasting out its call up to one mile away.


Our findings suggest that you have a fairly small window of opportunity
to be seen if you're being swept away from the boat in a strong
current. If you surface in a two-knot current, for example, you will
drift a quarter mile in only 7.5 minutes. Think of the boat with rings
around it every quarter mile. Within the first ring you have a good
chance of getting noticed with most signaling devices tested here, but
once you pass the half-mile mark, the ability to be seen or heard drops
off significantly. If you surface already a quarter-mile downcurrent
from the boat, you only have a few minutes to deploy your signal tube,
sound the alert and get noticed before you pass that second ring.


Your odds are better with a very tall signal tube (eight to 10 feet),
which, based on our test, could make you visible up to nearly a mile
away. The higher the boat deck or point from which the searcher is
looking will also improve your odds of being spotted. If the searcher
is using binoculars (7 x 50 is standard for marine use), your chances
of being spotted double. But once you are out of visual and audible
range, it's a big ocean-an electronic beacon or EPIRB (see "Electronic Devices") may be the only way to get found.

The Reviews: Visual Signaling Devices

Aqua Lung SOS

Aqua Lung SOS The SOS (Surface Observation Signal) is the original BC-integrated signal tube and still one of the easiest to use. Its hands-free design was the brainchild of underwater photographer Steven Frink (also photography director of this magazine), who often has his hands full with camera gear. The compact kit attaches to the BC's lower rear pull dump fitting and is secured by an elastic strap. To deploy, simply inflate your BC and pull the release strap-the tube inflates as air transfers from the BC bladder. We found it worked best to overinflate the BC to make sure the tube gets a good dose of air, then deflate the BC for more comfortable surface floatation. A one-way valve keeps the tube from deflating. A short elastic cord clips to a shoulder D-ring to support a vertical position of the tube, and a grommet on top allows you to attach a signal light or strobe. Price: $76.

DAN Surface Signaling Kit

DAN Surface Signaling Kit If we were putting together the perfect signaling kit we couldn't have done any better. Start with a six-foot tube that stands almost five feet above the waterline when you clip it to a lower D-ring for nearly hands-free operation; add a Wind Storm whistle that can be heard at a distance of one-half mile, and then throw in a signal mirror and 12-hour light stick just in case. It's also easy to use-the tube can be filled from a regulator, orally, or from your inflator hose. A built-in mesh pocket corrals all the accessories, and a full-length, two-inch-wide reflective strip provides better vis at night. Price: $75.

Dive Alert SMB

Dive Alert SMB The makers of the Dive Alert air horn knows that having more than one signal device is important, so they have added the SMB (surface marker buoy) to their product line. The bright orange tube also has two strips of Solas reflective tape (Coast Guard-approved) at the top, along with a loop of webbing to attach a light stick or strobe for nighttime rescue. It can be filled easily with a regulator or about six breaths. Webbing at the base can be used as a leg loop for vertical deployment. Velcro strips keep it rolled up neatly until needed. Price: $50.

The Reviews: Visual Signaling Devices

Innovative Scuba Concepts SMART

Innovative Scuba Concepts SMART The SMART (See Me And Respond Tube) is an integrated signal tube offered in five different models to accommodate a variety of different BCs. The pouch is slightly larger than the SOS pouch, and it attaches to the rear pull dump valve via a four-point buckle system, but it works just the same, drawing air from the BC bladder. A one-way check valve and an elastic cord system offer hands-free operation and keep the tube vertical for hands-free signaling. A strobe or light can be attached to the top with short pieces of cord provided. Price: $69.95.

Innovative Scuba Concepts 45-inch Cordura Signal Tube (yellow)

Innovative Scuba Concepts 45-inch Cordura Signal Tube (yellow) The yellow 45-inch Cordura signal tube (also available in orange) was the most compact tube we tested. While easy to stow and use, it was barely visible at a quarter mile. It can fit in almost any BC pocket or be clipped to your BC. The tube filled with one breath, and the screw-down inflator valve keeps air from escaping. Clipping the tube to a lower D-ring offered a steady, vertical position in the water and hands-free operation. It also comes with a safety whistle that we could hear at the quarter-mile mark and a clear sleeve for a light stick. Price: $29.95.

Innovative Scuba Concepts 72-inch Cordura Signal Tube (orange)

Innovative Scuba Concepts 72-inch Cordura Signal Tube (orange) The 72-inch Cordura signal tube comes in a compact, easy-to-stow package (it can be rolled up and stowed in a pocket or clipped to a D-ring) and offers very good visibility. It was easy to spot at a quarter mile and was still discernible at the half-mile mark. It inflated easily with two-and-a-half breaths and stayed inflated thanks to a locking oral inflation tube. Clip it to a low D-ring on your BC and it will maintain a vertical position with minimal support from one hand. It also comes with a diver whistle that was audible to a quarter mile. A clear sleeve can house a light stick, and Velcro straps keep the whole thing rolled up nicely. Also available in yellow. Price: $34.95.

Oceanic PSD

Oceanic PSD The PSD (Personal Safety Device) was the most versatile of the signal tubes tested. Orange on one side and yellow on the opposite, it also doubles as a floatation device. A patented zipper allows you to fold the tube around your neck and zip it together like a life vest, though it's not Coast Guard-approved for that purpose. As a vertical signaling tube, an adjustable webbing strap with a quick-release buckle loops around your leg to achieve a vertical deployment. The tube rolls into a compact package secured by Velcro flaps, and a clip is provided if you don't have pocket space. Two breaths into the oral inflator filled the tube quickly, and there's a clear plastic sleeve designed to hold a light stick. Price: $49.95..

OMS BCA255 Surface Marker Buoy (orange)/OMS Emergency BCA255-E (yellow)

OMS BCA255 Surface Marker Buoy (orange)/OMS Emergency BCA255-E (yellow) The OMS BCA255 has a slightly wider profile than many signal tubes, making it very easy to spot at the quarter-mile mark and still visible at the half-mile distance. It rolls up and packs away in most standard-sized BC pockets. It was one of a few tested that could be inflated both orally and with a regulator-the bottom of the tube opens like a lift bag, and an internal baffle prevents air from escaping. It took six good breaths to inflate manually; but just a short blast from an octopus reg. A long loop of webbing attached at the base acts as a hands-free vertical stabilizer. After filling the tube, remove one fin and slip the loop over your foot and up to your knee. The weight of your leg acts as an anchor and effectively holds the tube upright. The OMS Emergency is essentially the same tube, only in a bright yellow color with the word "Emergency" printed on the tube. The neon yellow is unnaturally bright on the water and really drew our attention, though the lettering did nothing to help visibility. Price: $46.96.

OMS High Seas BCA268

OMS High Seas BCA268 With about eight feet of tube visible above the waterline, the High Seas towered over all others and is the outright champ in the visibility test. It was the only tube in this test group we could see at three-quarters of a mile away, and it stayed visible to nearly the one-mile mark. The trade-off is bulk. It will fit into only the largest of BC pockets, and you'll need your own hardware to clip it to a D-ring. It takes about a dozen breaths to orally inflate, or you can fill the tube with a second-stage regulator. A long webbing loop fits around your leg for nearly hands-free use, and a strobe or light stick can be attached to a loop on top. Price: $98.02.

ResQBall (orange)

ResQBall (orange) The ResQBall offers a large target that might offer better visibility than safety tubes in certain conditions. Essentially a large balloon, the ball can be inflated to a diameter of about 3.5 feet, which is a whole lot wider than the 8.5 inches of the largest tube we tested. The caveat is that it's only 3.5 feet above the water and in high seas will be harder to spot in a trough. The company claims that it can be seen for up to a mile in clear conditions. From our small-boat platform, we were able to spot the ResQBall at the half-mile mark, but lost it by three quarters of a mile. The balloon and a power inflator adapter fit in your BC pocket and are easy to use. Inflating that ball requires about 300 psi and you leave it attached to the inflator hose for hands-free signaling. While it is possible to orally inflate the ResQBall (just like blowing up a balloon) in an out-of-air situation, realistically, it's not really practical. Price: $54.95 for inflator and one balloon. Extra balloons are $5 each.

More Visual Options

Princeton Tec Aqua Strobe

Princeton Tec Aqua Strobe If your day dive turns into a night drift then the Aqua Strobe might get you found before breakfast. If you are making night dives, it's a definite must to let the boat know you are in trouble if your light goes out. The Aqua Strobe is small and can fit most pockets, but also comes with a lanyard and Velcro strap for multiple mounting options. It will flash 70 times per minute for up to eight hours on one AA battery. Price: $39.99.

ACR Hot Shot Signal Mirror

ACR Hot Shot Signal Mirror One of the most overlooked and highly successful types of surface signal is a mirror. They're light, compact and don't need batteries. The Hot Shot is all that plus it's made from durable polycarbonate material so you won't have to worry about seven years of bad luck if you drop it. Signaling the boat is made easier by the center "site" that lets you see the reflection as a red spot when you look through the center hole. Just put the red dot on the boat and they should see the flash. We were able to see the signal from half a mile away easily. It comes with a lanyard, float and a USCG-approved whistle that we could hear up to a half mile away. Price: $11.

The Reviews: Audible Signaling Devices

Sometimes getting noticed means making noise. From old-fashioned
whistles to air horns powered by compressed air, here are the best
options we tested.

Aquatec Scub-Alert

Aquatec Scub-Alert Primarily designed as an underwater attention-getter, the Scub-Alert can also be used topside. This air horn plugs in between your inflator and low-pressure hose and makes a distinct high-pitched duck call. While it didn't travel as far as some of our best human-powered whistles, it was discernible at the quarter-mile mark. It is offered in three different models to fit various inflator designs, and prices vary depending on the model. Price: $59.99 to $69.99.

Dive Alert

Dive Alert It's the original integrated inflator air horn, and still the loudest we have tested. The company claims that it can be heard up to a mile away, and our results proved them right. The quality of sound is similar to the high pitch of a smoke detector alarm but 100 times louder. At this distance we couldn't see our "diver," but knew he was out there. Dive Alert is offered in three different models to fit a variety of inflators. Price: $50 with standard air couplings.

Genesis Scuba Signal Snorkel

Genesis Scuba Signal Snorkel Genesis has added a whistle to their popular purge snorkel, putting this signal device in close, easy reach. When you want to get noticed, just rotate the mouthpiece 180 degrees and blow. The medium pitch trill was audible up to one-quarter mile away. Price: $40.

Innovative Scuba Concepts Fox 40 Classic whistle

Innovative Scuba Concepts Fox 40 Classic whistle A traditional cop whistle that offers a nice high pitch that could be heard over boat noise up to a quarter mile away. Just zip-tie it to your corrugated hose and forget about it until you need it. Price: $9.95.

Innovative Scuba Concepts Wind Storm whistle

Innovative Scuba Concepts Wind Storm whistle This new compact whistle was one of only two that could be heard at a distance of a half mile from the boat. It's small, bright orange or yellow, and gets your point across with an ear-splitting trill. Price: $7.50.

Innovative Scuba Concepts Storm whistle

Innovative Scuba Concepts Storm whistle The bigger brother of the Storm, this was the only other whistle to grab our attention at the half-mile mark. Comes with split ring for attachment. Price: $9.95.

Electronic Devices

In remote locations with high currents and an even higher probability
of being separated from the boat, you may need an electronic system to
ensure you'll be found. Here are two options.

Sea Marshall Lost Diver Locating System

Sea Marshall Lost Diver Locating System Sea Marshall has developed a radio beacon system that is designed to help the boat locate a lost diver but that also operates on a standard search and rescue frequency (121.5 mhz) in case others are called in to look for you. The diver wears a beacon that is easy to operate, is depth-rated to more than 300 feet, and emits a direction signal that can be picked up by the boat up to 3 nautical miles away depending on the height of the antenna and sea conditions. The boat's receiving unit sounds an alarm when a diver activates their beacon, and indicates the direction of the signal. If the diver drifts out of range, the boat can then call in the Coast Guard. The locator signal can be picked up by search aircraft anywhere from 7 to 35 nautical miles depending on altitude, so even if the boat you're diving from doesn't have the entire system, the beacon itself could get you out of a jam. The base unit receiver is meant for permanent installation on a large dive boat, but Sea Marshall also offers a portable receiving unit that sounds the alarm if a beacon is activated, but it doesn't indicate direction to diver. Price: Diver locator beacon $349; Crew Guard portable receiver $658; Base Unit receiver, $2,795. www.seamarshall-us.com.

ACR ResQFix 406 MHz GPS Personal Locator Beacon

ACR ResQFix 406 MHz GPS Personal Locator Beacon The ResQFix is the smallest personal locator beacon on the market today, and the best way to get found from anywhere on the planet. It uses GPS technology to pinpoint your exact location and transmits this and your personal information to the Coast Guard. Each ResQFix is registered to its owner, so when it's activated they know who they're looking for. Designed for boaters, the unit is waterproof to about 16.5 feet, but it's small enough to fit in a compact waterproof box. If you are the kind of diver who ventures to the Galapagos, South Pacific or other remote destinations, this is a must. The ResQFix should only be activated in cases of loss of life or limb, as you will have the Coast Guard soon overhead. Price: $750. www.acrelectronics.com.

How to Get Noticed

Always dive with at least two signaling devices-a
signaling tube and an air horn or whistle. For maximum visibility in
all situations, it also helps to have a signaling mirror, too.

Buy the longest, widest, brightest tube you can carry.

Deploy your signal tube immediately upon surfacing if you're drifting away from the boat. You may be out of visible range in a matter of minutes.

Wave the tube over your head and blow your whistle
until you see some sign that the boat has noticed you. Multiple tubes
are easier to spot than individual ones. If your buddy has a tube, both
should be deployed. Different colors are easier to spot depending on
the conditions, have a yellow and an orange tube and deploy both for
maximum visibility.

When you have the boat's attention, attach the tube so that it remains vertical in the water, and start flashing your mirror toward the boat.

If it appears the boat is unaware of your situation
and you are close to shore or an island, swim in that direction. You
may be able to swim perpendicular to the current and escape its pull.